⇒Denim is a heavy fabric and sewing it is a challenge at times...especially when it comes to sewing recycled jeans. Embracing these challenges can DRIVE CREATIVITY and DESIGN. I am a firm believer “there is more than one way to skin a rabbit”... you just have to figure it out.
BELT LOOPS often force creative construction. They can be extremely thick. If I can, I walk the machine over them. If I can't, I bypass them and only catch the waistband underneath. If that doesn't work, I start and stop my stitching on either side of the belt loop and then sewn another supporting seam as close to the first seam as design permits to support the interrupted seam.
⇒I have an “OLDIE but GOODIE” SEWING MACHINE to sew denim. My old machine is a good choice for sewing denim because it’s a solid machine with metal parts AND it didn’t cost an arm and a leg. It’s replaceable at a reasonable price. (In high school I broke my grandma’s fancy sewing machine making a pair of jeans and I felt really, really badly about it.)
⇒Sewing tools: Scissors (heavy duty is really nice) Seam Ripper (great for unpicking pockets) Nippers (quickly cut threads) Washable Marker (pencil works too) Clear Ruler Rotary Cutter Cutting Mat
You can get by without all of these tools...having them just makes the process easier.
You can get by without all of these tools...having them just makes the process easier.
⇒100/16 is my favorite NEEDLE SIZE. I have used 90/14 and 110/18 sized needles. 90/14 was on the light side for me. I broke several of these needles sewing denim. 110/18 was a bit too heavy for my machine...the needle’s thickness over worked my machine.
⇒MY THREAD of choice is a heavy #60 topstitching thread. [#60 (T60) Jean thread in Gold to be exact.] I buy it in 6000 yd cones. Buying thread in the small spools got expensive. (A jimmy-rigged coat hanger allows the cone thread to spool off to feed my machine.) The first cone I bought was a larger #80 (T80) thread. When that ran out I ordered a size smaller (#60). The #80 wasn’t a good fit for my machine and needle. It was so thick I couldn’t get a good even stitch...instead it seem to just sit on top. (I don’t know if that makes sense.) A seam that isn’t “even” doesn’t lock in the middle of the fabric and so it can come unstitched easier. With this in mind you may have to adjust your thread and needle size to what works with your machine.
⇒The DURABILITY of denim lends to several options for FINISHING EDGES. My favorite, is also the simplest... A zigzag stitch about ⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge to support and stabilize the denim. It can be clipped to promote fraying or just left to let washing do its magic.
Denim will fray at different rates depending on its orientation to the bias. I will clip edges when I want fraying to be uniform.
⇒Take a GOOD LOOK at your denim before you cut it. If it has a UNIQUE wear pattern or construction detail,showcase it in the design.
⇒Consider seams. Factory seams are always interesting. (Just keep in mind that they are also thick so stagger them.)
⇒Think outside the BOX...EXPERIMENT! An example...double and triple stitched side seams make great rope or cording for loops or cinch sacks.
⇒Mixing up jean color adds visual interest. Being able to pull from a variety of jeans is one of the reasons I collect denim. Having OPTIONS is WONDERFUL.
The feature photo purse is a great example of some of these design ideas. I had a pair of jeans with an super cool embroidered back pocket. It was the perfect pocket for the front of a purse! I had another pair of jeans with an incredible wear pattern on the leg. (It may be my favorite piece of denim ever!)
I wanted to showcase it in the purse...it became one of the straps. I love that it can be seen when the purse is being used or when it is just hanging around.
Check out the tutorial post for a SUPER SIMPLE SACK.
It is a great starter project because it is simple and gives you a chance to create with denim on a small scale...just 6 seams and half of them are tacking seams. For those who don’t need a beginner project these sacks are still a really great projectbecause they are FUN, FAST & extremely USEFUL!
You can get by without all of these tools...having them just makes the process easier.
